Wednesday, December 15, 2010

Is it the end of the year already?

Definitely hard to believe 2010 is already coming to an end. It's been an interesting year for me. This time last year I was living in San Antonio, Texas, waiting tables and generally just existing. I certainly had no idea I would be in South Korea just one year later. My time in Texas was short, but a blast while I was there. I got to spend a lot of time with my high school amigo Luke and made two amazing friendships with Brittaney and Danny. It was sad to leave that state but I knew that my time there was bound to be short.

I spent a month back home really slacking off. Zach and Amy's wedding was good, I got to reconnect with a bunch of kids I haven't seen since high school. I spent a good amount of time at Aaron and Sarah's place, but it never seems like enough. Quick drive to Chicago to get my visa. Seemingly the next moment I was at the airport, off to South Korea for a whole year.

The adjustment period was short lived as I started my job two days after I arrived. No training and just an hour's worth of orientation and there I was, standing in front of my first classroom of kids. Now, four months later, I think I've actually got a grip on my teaching and on living in Korea.

I am taking brave stabs at going out alone into the bustling city that is Seoul. I took my longest solo trip last weekend into Hongdae, which is the university part of town. And by university part of town I mean there are usually Korean students and foreign teachers. The teachers like this part of town because the night life is great and it isn't Itaewon. Itaewon is the other place most foreigners hang out, but the military base is there so it's a lot of military guys getting loud and rowdy, not exactly my scene. I was invited via Couchsurfing to a 1960s themed dance party and well, I couldn't pass that up. I was unable to get anyone from Hanam to go with me so I took the journey myself.

It's about an hour fifteen to get to Hongdae from Hanam, by bus and subway. I left around nine thirty Saturday night on the bus into Jamsil (pronounced Jamshill- anytime an i follows an s there is an sh sound) which is the closest part of Seoul to me. Jumped onto the subway there for a ride to the other side of the city. Korean subway stations are always interesting. The bigger ones (like Jamsil) double as subway stations and huge underground shopping centers. So like any Saturday everywhere I went was packed with people and noisy and generally crazy. Made it onto the number 2 line and found a seat, ready for the fourtyfive minute ride. The subway cars are just as amusing as anything else. Girls in ten or eleven centimeter high heels trying to balance as the train starts and stops, old drunk men falling into everyone, exquisitely dressed business men checking out their reflection in the windows. Bluesy Tom Waits playing the perfect soundtrack in my ears, I made it to Hongdae.

Once out of the subway station a new game begins, the one of finding the bar I was supposed to be going to. I had a map (sort of) from the internet but it was vague. I can't exactly read the street signs and get my bearings that way so it's more of a wander around and hope I'm in the right area. I knew I was looking for a place near a park so I took off in that direction. I found the park, and stood transfixed. There was a hoot-hollerin Santa party going on. Really like 500 Santas, boys, girls, Koreans, foreigners, everybody yelling and running and playing strange games. There was a live band and even though it was below freezing outside I don't think even one of them noticed. Later I found out this was an event called Santa Con.

Fifteen minutes of wandering around and being generally amazed with the atmosphere I found my bar, tucked into a back street. I went down ( no bars are street level here, always basement or second level) and was really glad I decided to get out here. It was a little dive bar with a small stage and a great looking dance floor. Two beautiful Korean girls making drinks behind the bar, and one older Korean woman dressed like John Lennon. It was just after 11 at this point and things were just on the verge of getting started. The subways stop running at midnight out here so unless I wanted to take an expensive taxi ride back home (which I didn't) I was in for a long
night at the bar. The bars in Korea don't close so I wasn't worried about being kicked out.

Around midnight the place really got jumping. There were maybe one hundred or one hundred twenty people there, but in a crowded little bar that was more than enough. Motown and Beach Boys and all sorts of great sixties tunes kept us moving all night long. I arrived alone but made plenty of friends as the night wore on. The very best part happened this way- I was dancing and having a good old time, all of the sudden I see next to me a guy dancing with a blue and yellow stocking hat on. The hat has two words, PRIOR LAKE, printed on the side. I stood staring at it for a couple of minutes before I decided I was reading it right. I bounded to the guy and threw my arm around his neck. "Does your hat say Prior Lake?" I yelled in his ear. "Yeah, it does," was his response. "Prior Lake Minnesota???" "Yeah" "Oh my god... I'm from Prior Lake!! ramblerambleramble...." This guy, I have no idea what his name was, absolutely made my night. It was incredible. By five thirty I was completely and utterly worn out. I had danced out most of the booze in my system and switched to water around 5. I could hear my bed calling me from oh so far away and decided it was time to journey on home.

Subway stations at six in the morning are quite the sight to behold. I'm sure they look quite different during the week, but on weekends the only souls are the worn out twenty-somethings. Slumped over on benches and against the walls ranging from completely drunk to stone sober, but everyone utterly tired. Girls sleeping in their boyfriend's laps, everyone trying to stay awake long enough to make it onto the train when it comes. I dozed on the ride back to Jamsil, walked out into the now abandoned station, and up to the surface. Caught a bus back into Hanam and watched the sun start rising over the mountains from my window seat.

A great great night to be sure. Not something I'll do every weekend as it is quite taxing on the body, but an excellent way to really let loose.

I'll grumble here about the weather for a minute, it's dang cold but we've got no snow to show for it! We had one good day of snow but it was up in the fourties the next day so it all melted off. I'm really hoping we get a good snowfall in the next week or so I would love to have a white Christmas. I mean, nothing like what Minnesnowta just got, but a few inches would be great.

I bought myself a plane ticket last week. In the middle of February I'll be heading down to Cambodia to spend a week lounging on the beach and really relaxing, doing nothing. That will be right at the halfway point in my year here so I think it will be very welcome.

Wow, this was quite the post. Anyways if I don't get another post up before Christmas I hope everyone has a really really good one! Think of me when you're on your break because I don't get any time off as Christmas and New Years are on Saturdays this year. The private schools don't take winter breaks. So for the first time ever, I'll be at school for my birthday. Not sure how I feel about that, but it can't be helped.

Just a quick note: The dispute between North and South Korea is nothing to worry about at the moment. I know how the media in the U.S. likes to hype everything up into an Armageddon situation but everything seems fine out here. Precautions are being taken and drill are being ran, but the general feeling from the locals is that there is nothing serious happening. I will let you know if anything changes.

Lots and Lots and LOTS of love from Korea everyone!!

Saturday, December 4, 2010

New Semester

December is here and with it brings the new semester at our school. This semester will have the lightest workload of the four while I'm here. This is because we lose our sixth grade students to the middle school, but we don't get new third graders until March. So instead of having five or six classes every day I now have three or four. I'm pretty excited about this. I will still be busy making new classroom materials, writing stories, and other various things but the next three months should be pretty fun.

It seems like winter is trying really hard to start out here. The temperatures keep flirting between twenty five and fifty degrees. There was a little bit of snow one night but nothing substantial. To be honest I hope we get a significant amount soon because it's been such a long time since I've lived somewhere with a lot of snow. Either way it's nice to experience the changing seasons again.

I have definitely eaten some interesting foods this week. On Tuesday we had a party for a few of the teachers who are leaving the school and I got to try sannakji. These are squid tentacles fresh from the squid. So fresh in fact that they are still moving and wriggling on the plate when it's brought out to you. Strange, strange thing to eat. You are supposed to chew them up really good before you swallow or else the suckers, which are still active, could stick to your throat and make you choke. They tasted ok, not my favorite but most Koreans I talk to love them. I guess they are supposed to make you strong.

The other interesting food I tried was chicken feet. This is a food that supposedly is really good for your skin. I liked this one a lot better than the sannakji. They were served in a really spicy sauce and came with plastic gloves so you could just dive in and pick them up with your hands., crunch the whole thing in your mouth and spit out the bones.

Coming up in a couple weeks is the semiannual ENM school party. This is the second of four Saturdays I have to work during the year. We give stickers to kids who do their homework and for some class activities and this is the time they get to redeem their stickers. They can buy food and prizes with them. I think I have been pegged to play Santa Claus at the party. Not too sure how I feel about that but we'll see how it works out.

That's all for now, keep fighting the good fight everyone!!
Much love!

Monday, November 22, 2010

Three months!

Well, today is the one quarter mark of my stay in Korea, and I thought it would be appropriate to make a post. Hard to believe it's been three months already, the time has flown by. I've made some great friends from all over the world. It always amuses me that when I go out with friends we are a regular united nations delegation. Usually there are three or four different continents represented. I've made friends with people from the States, Canada, England, Scotland, Switzerland, South Africa, Australia, New Zealand, Indonesia, China, Taiwan, Japan, and of course, Korea. Super awesome.

I'm starting to understand Seoul a lot better. I am still utterly lost most of the time, but I can usually get from one part of the city to another pretty well. As long as I stay on the main roads and in the subways I am fine. I'm starting to explore off the main roads in Hanam now which is really fun too. I live in the new part of the city with high rise apartments and various American type shops, but old Hanam is much more interesting. There are parts of the city the west has barely grazed and I feel more foreign there than anywhere else I've been.

The fall has been gorgeous out here, it's so nice to live in a place where the leaves change color again. The sea of red, yellow, and brown is almost all on the ground now, and I think winter is coming soon. The past few weeks have been really pleasant, staying in the fifties during the day, but a cold snap is coming through and I sure am glad that I brought my winter coat.

I discover new foods almost every day and love all of it. I know the names of a lot, but there is a lot more that I have no idea. Generally I just let whoever I am with order because I like everything I've tried. Kimchi especially I can't get enough of, pickled and spicy...mmm mmm mmm.

Here a few pictures from around Hanam. The first is the view out my front door. The second is my school. The third is just a picture I took while walking to work.







Well that's about all from this side of the world for now. I'll try to do something really exciting in the next couple weeks for you all to read about and enjoy:)

Thursday, November 11, 2010

Pepero Day!

Hello and good tidings to all!!!
My internet was down in the apartment for a few days and now it's back so I've decided to celebrate with a new blog post. I suppose the most interesting thing that has happened in the past couple weeks was yesterday. We had a 'holiday' in the way Valentine's Day is a holiday, simply a way to boost the economy it seems. The day was Pepero Day and it was awesomely silly. I've included a picture of some pepero sticks below.


The whole day is about buying these and giving them to your friends. I bought a few to give to the other teachers at school and some for the best students in class that day. I received them from the other teachers and from one or two students each class, the result being a big pile of peperos that I'll be munching on for the next couple weeks.

Fall has been gorgeous so far here in Korea. There are so many trees everywhere turning yellow and red making the whole city extremely beautiful. The weather is really pleasant too, keeping between thirty five and fifty degrees usually. It is really refreshing to be living in a place with seasons again. I've sure missed it.

Sarah is back from England and life is back to normal after a very crazy two weeks. Classes are going really well and I'm getting on great with my students. The one student that did not like me at all actually quit the school at the beginning of the month so things are going better than I hoped.

About three or four weeks ago I started looking into taking a trip in the last week of December, but I think I'll be pushing it back now. From all the plane tickets I looked at traveling during that time will be a lot more expensive than two or three months later. So I think I'll wait it out, and save about $250 on a plane ticket. I'll probably be going out of the country in the beginning of February for the Lunar New Year. This will be my first trip out of the country, and I'm thinking either Cambodia or Indonesia for this one. Still a long ways away but it gives me something to look forward to.

Not too much else going on here. Just rolling along. I'm coming up on the three month mark in less than two weeks. Foreign teachers I've talked to told me that this is usually the point most foreigners become a little disenchanted and homesick. But then they said that after this passes it's smooth sailing for the rest of the trip. I've not had any of those feelings yet and hopefully I won't but if my next post is seeped in the blues you'll know why.

As always I hope everyone is doing great, I love you lots!!!

Sunday, October 31, 2010

Halloween!!

Yes that's right kids it's Halloween again, my favorite holiday of the year. I sure do love getting all dressed up and going out to a big old party, and this year did not disappoint. My costume was not as elaborate as years past due to my much reduced wardrobe and not having a lot of time to throw something together. What I ended up doing was heading down to E-mart (the department/grocery store in town) to see what they had to offer. I found a masquerade type mask and some pumpkin alien antenna, that was about it. So I bought both and for the rest of my costume dressed up nice, tie and slacks and whatnot.

First on the agenda for the night was dinner with the couchsurfers. We all met somewhere downtown, already drawing incredible stares. The only person without a costume was a girl named Chamy who was on vacation with her mom from Indonesia so I let her have the pumpkin antenna. We marched down the street towards the restaurant, and it was painfully obvious that this was just another Saturday night for most Koreans, but for all the foreigners it was HALLOWEEN!!

After dinner came the meat of the night, what we had all signed up for, the subway party. At this point there were probably twenty or twenty five of us all together. We went to the back car of the subway (line #2) and all piled on together. Needless to say everyone in the car was dumbfounded. The tension eased though when we started handing out candy and yelling happy Halloween at everyone we could see.

From the dinner stop to our destination was about an hour so we all just settled in to the car, drinking our discrete beverages, and scaring the locals. When we pulled into a stop some people would just stare at the car and not move, obviously deciding to wait for the next train. More people seemed to like it though, they would come in and laugh at the silly foreigners and ask us to pose in pictures with them and eat our candy. Overall the subway party was a screaming success.

After that we ended up in Hongdae to hit up some bars. The first place we tried to go had a cover of like $20 so we skipped it in favor of something cheaper. Next place had no cover and a great dance floor. It was pretty deserted when we went into it but that quickly changed with twenty of us piling in. The DJ was good and the drinks were cheap, an excellent combination.

After that bar we moved across the street to a hookah bar for a while, which was nice. Hongdae is actually the big university part of town, so the Halloween festivities were in full swing out here. Most of the bars and clubs were having some kind of promotion or event and most of the people I saw (which was a lot of people) were dressed up. Post hookah bar we ate some spicy rice cakes and meat (not sure what kind) from a street vendor then went into the noribang for some terrible terrible singing.

When our time was up in there the group, which had been getting smaller as the night went on, split in two again, half going home and the other half staying out to party a bit more. Guess which half I was in... Anyway we hit up another dance club and were there for about, man I don't know, an hour? Two? Well after we left we ended up just wandering around the streets for another hour or so. By this time the sky was beginning to lighten up and I took that as my cue to make for the exit.

It was generally my plan to stay out this late anyway because the subways stop at midnight and start up again at 6am, so instead of forking out $40 or so for a cab ride home I would just party til the sun came up and pay $2 to ride public transport all the way home. So one very sleepy subway ride and one very sleepy bus ride later I arrived safe and sound at my apartment, a very bright 7:45 in the morning. So that was that, made some really awesome friends and had a good time. Couchsurfers really are the best people. They thrive on meeting strangers and having a good time right away, this was the perfect setting for all of us.

Well I hope everyone else had an awesome Halloween too. My pics from the night are up on facebook if you want to check them out. Peace and love everyone!!!

Saturday, October 23, 2010

Really on my own now...

Well here we go, for the next two weeks I'm the only English speaker at the school. Sarah's contract was up so she's taking a two week vacation back to England before renewing. This next week won't be too bad because it's test week, I just have to grade twice as many tests. The week after that will be tougher though because I have to plan lessons for two classes at once, most at very different levels. Oh well, games and more games to the rescue.

Last night was Sun's birthday, my boss. So I went out with some teachers to a restaurant in town for the birthday party. For the first time I was the only person in a large group who didn't speak Korean, made for a pretty interesting time. Of all the teachers there, maybe fifteen, only four were English teachers, so most of my conversations were pretty strained. But as the night wore on everybody loosened up and started talking with me more. This was completely due to the alcohol.

The dinner started innocently enough, Korean barbecue style with really delicious steak and pork. Plenty of side dishes, onions, garlic, different styles of kimchi, soup and more. I'm really starting to like kimchi, something about the spicy sour taste is growing on me. But pretty soon there were more bottles than dishes on the tables, it's apparent that Koreans drink only two things, beer and soju. There was a bottle of Korean berry wine being passed around, but I think that was only to show me what it was like.

I talked for the first time to most of the middle school teachers. There are plenty of guys who teach in middle school and they all commented on how I was the only guy in the elementary staff. But they are all awesome and complimented me on my beer drinking ability. One of the math teachers, Jin, said that he would like me to teach him English math (not entirely sure what that means) and that he would teach me Korean in return.

I'm not sure how long we were at the restaurant, but after a while all the older teachers started to head home, and after Sun left it was just the young crowd there. Everyone decided to keep the party going so we headed down the street to a bar. More beer and soju, plus we ordered some sort of food. I have no idea what it was, some kind of seafood dish/soup/something but it was delicious and extra spicy.

After some time at the bar it was time to go home. Everyone drifted off to their cars or jumped into taxis. Luckily my apartment was only about a fifteen minute walk from the bar and I know the way good enough to stumble home. Walked in the door and the clock said 4:30. Time really does get away from you when nothing closes.

So there you have it, a really good night. I got drunk, made new friends, and didn't pay for a thing. In Korea it is customary for the elder of the group to pick up the tab, which is awesome because everyone I know is older than me.

And mom, to answer your question it's not calling 0-12 months 1 year olds and 12-24 months 2 year olds, they just tack on another year or two, because it's just really important to be older.

As far as interesting things on the street, most streets are usually lined with people who set up blankets or tables and sell stuff all day, everything from fruit and veggies to bar food(popcorn, cracker like things) to sunglasses to jewelry. Most businesses spill out onto the sidewalk too. But I am by far the most interesting thing on the streets, I get stared at literally everywhere I go. The little kids I can understand but kids my age, adults, and the elderly all just watch me wide eyed as I go by. I don't think they understand that I can see them too, because when I flash a big goofy smile at them they always look surprised then look away.

Anyway, that's all for now, I'm going out tonight with a friend of Fuzzy's he met in Portland who's now over here teaching English. Small world man. I think he said we're gonna eat some tacos first, STOKED!

Here's a picture of a bridge in town, pretty cool artwork.


Sunday, October 17, 2010

Just livin Korea style

Hey all! Just thought I'd post something here about my general observations on the country and some of their stranger customs.

One thing that I am not quite used to yet is bowing. It isn't like japan out here where everyone seems to bow to everyone, the rules are a little more complicated. Generally you are supposed to bow only to someone who commands respect, like your grandparents or your boss. For instance there are two people at my school I am supposed to bow to when I am greeting them, I usually forget and I think they understand, but sometimes they give me strange looks so I'm trying to remember more. I also bow at strangers who when I want them to understand that I respect them, like at a store or something. It is very strange for me to be bowed at, and it happens a lot at school. The students I teach usually won't, they just say 'Hello Robert teacher!' and try to get away before I can ask them any sort of question. But the students I don't teach, especially the middle schoolers will always make a quick bow and mutter 'annyeong ha say yo' (which means hello) as they walk by. I'm not saying I don't like it, but it is rather strange to me.

Meal time is another time I am finding some different customs. Korea went through some pretty difficult times in the past hundred years, and in those times there was usually not a lot to eat. The thing everyone says before a meal here is 'jal meokkesseumnida' which means 'eat as much as you can.' They really stick by this too, and will keep shoving food at you long after you think you're full. It is also very impolite to refuse a drink from your elder, so if I ever go out drinking with someone of high status than me it's basically up to them how drunk I get.

It is extremely hard to gauge ages out here too. These people are very healthy in shape and age very gracefully, especially the girls. The elementary teachers I work with, who are all girls, look like they are all twenty five years old, but they are actually between twenty eight and thirty five. It is even harder to tell age out here because it is the cultural norm to lie about how old you are. In Korea everyone wants to be older and will always add one or two years to their age when you ask them, and I do mean everyone. If you want to know their real age you have to ask 'what's you age... ok... what's your American age?' This is even true for little kids. Once when I was at a restaurant with some friends we sat next to a couple with a little kid, so little he could barely talk. He was super cute and kept running up to us so we started talking to the parents, we asked them how old he was and they said three years old, then they said 'American age two years old.' It is so important to be older here that even two year olds get boosted up.

I had thought for about two seconds of trying to get a motor scooter here, but on second thought it would probably be the death of me, seriously. The Korean people are usually very reserved and polite, they seem to let out all of their pent up feelings and aggressions on the road. Even as a pedestrian on the sidewalk I sometimes feel unsafe. These are the most aggressive and impatient driver ever. Motorcycles and scooters weave through traffic and never, ever stop at red lights. The cars are a little better and some of them will stop at red lights (but the buses and taxis never do). Intersections without lights are the worst of all because there are literally no stop signs in this country, it's a yield system and basically the biggest car always wins. There isn't really a structure for street parking either. Anyone can park going any direction on any street it seems. Two way streets quickly become one ways as the day begins and cars squeeze into non-existent spots. Anyone meeting head on in a street like this follows the general rules out here: the biggest car wins.

Well I guess that's about all I've got for the moment. If anyone has a question about life out here or wants to know if something is different feel free to post a comment. In the mean time I'll just be keeping on out here. The other foreign teacher Sarah is getting ready to go home for two weeks starting on Friday because she is renewing her contract and taking a vacation. This means I'll be teaching her classes as well as mine so it will be very very busy for me in the next few weeks.

Take care everyone, lots of love from Korea!!