Sunday, October 31, 2010

Halloween!!

Yes that's right kids it's Halloween again, my favorite holiday of the year. I sure do love getting all dressed up and going out to a big old party, and this year did not disappoint. My costume was not as elaborate as years past due to my much reduced wardrobe and not having a lot of time to throw something together. What I ended up doing was heading down to E-mart (the department/grocery store in town) to see what they had to offer. I found a masquerade type mask and some pumpkin alien antenna, that was about it. So I bought both and for the rest of my costume dressed up nice, tie and slacks and whatnot.

First on the agenda for the night was dinner with the couchsurfers. We all met somewhere downtown, already drawing incredible stares. The only person without a costume was a girl named Chamy who was on vacation with her mom from Indonesia so I let her have the pumpkin antenna. We marched down the street towards the restaurant, and it was painfully obvious that this was just another Saturday night for most Koreans, but for all the foreigners it was HALLOWEEN!!

After dinner came the meat of the night, what we had all signed up for, the subway party. At this point there were probably twenty or twenty five of us all together. We went to the back car of the subway (line #2) and all piled on together. Needless to say everyone in the car was dumbfounded. The tension eased though when we started handing out candy and yelling happy Halloween at everyone we could see.

From the dinner stop to our destination was about an hour so we all just settled in to the car, drinking our discrete beverages, and scaring the locals. When we pulled into a stop some people would just stare at the car and not move, obviously deciding to wait for the next train. More people seemed to like it though, they would come in and laugh at the silly foreigners and ask us to pose in pictures with them and eat our candy. Overall the subway party was a screaming success.

After that we ended up in Hongdae to hit up some bars. The first place we tried to go had a cover of like $20 so we skipped it in favor of something cheaper. Next place had no cover and a great dance floor. It was pretty deserted when we went into it but that quickly changed with twenty of us piling in. The DJ was good and the drinks were cheap, an excellent combination.

After that bar we moved across the street to a hookah bar for a while, which was nice. Hongdae is actually the big university part of town, so the Halloween festivities were in full swing out here. Most of the bars and clubs were having some kind of promotion or event and most of the people I saw (which was a lot of people) were dressed up. Post hookah bar we ate some spicy rice cakes and meat (not sure what kind) from a street vendor then went into the noribang for some terrible terrible singing.

When our time was up in there the group, which had been getting smaller as the night went on, split in two again, half going home and the other half staying out to party a bit more. Guess which half I was in... Anyway we hit up another dance club and were there for about, man I don't know, an hour? Two? Well after we left we ended up just wandering around the streets for another hour or so. By this time the sky was beginning to lighten up and I took that as my cue to make for the exit.

It was generally my plan to stay out this late anyway because the subways stop at midnight and start up again at 6am, so instead of forking out $40 or so for a cab ride home I would just party til the sun came up and pay $2 to ride public transport all the way home. So one very sleepy subway ride and one very sleepy bus ride later I arrived safe and sound at my apartment, a very bright 7:45 in the morning. So that was that, made some really awesome friends and had a good time. Couchsurfers really are the best people. They thrive on meeting strangers and having a good time right away, this was the perfect setting for all of us.

Well I hope everyone else had an awesome Halloween too. My pics from the night are up on facebook if you want to check them out. Peace and love everyone!!!

Saturday, October 23, 2010

Really on my own now...

Well here we go, for the next two weeks I'm the only English speaker at the school. Sarah's contract was up so she's taking a two week vacation back to England before renewing. This next week won't be too bad because it's test week, I just have to grade twice as many tests. The week after that will be tougher though because I have to plan lessons for two classes at once, most at very different levels. Oh well, games and more games to the rescue.

Last night was Sun's birthday, my boss. So I went out with some teachers to a restaurant in town for the birthday party. For the first time I was the only person in a large group who didn't speak Korean, made for a pretty interesting time. Of all the teachers there, maybe fifteen, only four were English teachers, so most of my conversations were pretty strained. But as the night wore on everybody loosened up and started talking with me more. This was completely due to the alcohol.

The dinner started innocently enough, Korean barbecue style with really delicious steak and pork. Plenty of side dishes, onions, garlic, different styles of kimchi, soup and more. I'm really starting to like kimchi, something about the spicy sour taste is growing on me. But pretty soon there were more bottles than dishes on the tables, it's apparent that Koreans drink only two things, beer and soju. There was a bottle of Korean berry wine being passed around, but I think that was only to show me what it was like.

I talked for the first time to most of the middle school teachers. There are plenty of guys who teach in middle school and they all commented on how I was the only guy in the elementary staff. But they are all awesome and complimented me on my beer drinking ability. One of the math teachers, Jin, said that he would like me to teach him English math (not entirely sure what that means) and that he would teach me Korean in return.

I'm not sure how long we were at the restaurant, but after a while all the older teachers started to head home, and after Sun left it was just the young crowd there. Everyone decided to keep the party going so we headed down the street to a bar. More beer and soju, plus we ordered some sort of food. I have no idea what it was, some kind of seafood dish/soup/something but it was delicious and extra spicy.

After some time at the bar it was time to go home. Everyone drifted off to their cars or jumped into taxis. Luckily my apartment was only about a fifteen minute walk from the bar and I know the way good enough to stumble home. Walked in the door and the clock said 4:30. Time really does get away from you when nothing closes.

So there you have it, a really good night. I got drunk, made new friends, and didn't pay for a thing. In Korea it is customary for the elder of the group to pick up the tab, which is awesome because everyone I know is older than me.

And mom, to answer your question it's not calling 0-12 months 1 year olds and 12-24 months 2 year olds, they just tack on another year or two, because it's just really important to be older.

As far as interesting things on the street, most streets are usually lined with people who set up blankets or tables and sell stuff all day, everything from fruit and veggies to bar food(popcorn, cracker like things) to sunglasses to jewelry. Most businesses spill out onto the sidewalk too. But I am by far the most interesting thing on the streets, I get stared at literally everywhere I go. The little kids I can understand but kids my age, adults, and the elderly all just watch me wide eyed as I go by. I don't think they understand that I can see them too, because when I flash a big goofy smile at them they always look surprised then look away.

Anyway, that's all for now, I'm going out tonight with a friend of Fuzzy's he met in Portland who's now over here teaching English. Small world man. I think he said we're gonna eat some tacos first, STOKED!

Here's a picture of a bridge in town, pretty cool artwork.


Sunday, October 17, 2010

Just livin Korea style

Hey all! Just thought I'd post something here about my general observations on the country and some of their stranger customs.

One thing that I am not quite used to yet is bowing. It isn't like japan out here where everyone seems to bow to everyone, the rules are a little more complicated. Generally you are supposed to bow only to someone who commands respect, like your grandparents or your boss. For instance there are two people at my school I am supposed to bow to when I am greeting them, I usually forget and I think they understand, but sometimes they give me strange looks so I'm trying to remember more. I also bow at strangers who when I want them to understand that I respect them, like at a store or something. It is very strange for me to be bowed at, and it happens a lot at school. The students I teach usually won't, they just say 'Hello Robert teacher!' and try to get away before I can ask them any sort of question. But the students I don't teach, especially the middle schoolers will always make a quick bow and mutter 'annyeong ha say yo' (which means hello) as they walk by. I'm not saying I don't like it, but it is rather strange to me.

Meal time is another time I am finding some different customs. Korea went through some pretty difficult times in the past hundred years, and in those times there was usually not a lot to eat. The thing everyone says before a meal here is 'jal meokkesseumnida' which means 'eat as much as you can.' They really stick by this too, and will keep shoving food at you long after you think you're full. It is also very impolite to refuse a drink from your elder, so if I ever go out drinking with someone of high status than me it's basically up to them how drunk I get.

It is extremely hard to gauge ages out here too. These people are very healthy in shape and age very gracefully, especially the girls. The elementary teachers I work with, who are all girls, look like they are all twenty five years old, but they are actually between twenty eight and thirty five. It is even harder to tell age out here because it is the cultural norm to lie about how old you are. In Korea everyone wants to be older and will always add one or two years to their age when you ask them, and I do mean everyone. If you want to know their real age you have to ask 'what's you age... ok... what's your American age?' This is even true for little kids. Once when I was at a restaurant with some friends we sat next to a couple with a little kid, so little he could barely talk. He was super cute and kept running up to us so we started talking to the parents, we asked them how old he was and they said three years old, then they said 'American age two years old.' It is so important to be older here that even two year olds get boosted up.

I had thought for about two seconds of trying to get a motor scooter here, but on second thought it would probably be the death of me, seriously. The Korean people are usually very reserved and polite, they seem to let out all of their pent up feelings and aggressions on the road. Even as a pedestrian on the sidewalk I sometimes feel unsafe. These are the most aggressive and impatient driver ever. Motorcycles and scooters weave through traffic and never, ever stop at red lights. The cars are a little better and some of them will stop at red lights (but the buses and taxis never do). Intersections without lights are the worst of all because there are literally no stop signs in this country, it's a yield system and basically the biggest car always wins. There isn't really a structure for street parking either. Anyone can park going any direction on any street it seems. Two way streets quickly become one ways as the day begins and cars squeeze into non-existent spots. Anyone meeting head on in a street like this follows the general rules out here: the biggest car wins.

Well I guess that's about all I've got for the moment. If anyone has a question about life out here or wants to know if something is different feel free to post a comment. In the mean time I'll just be keeping on out here. The other foreign teacher Sarah is getting ready to go home for two weeks starting on Friday because she is renewing her contract and taking a vacation. This means I'll be teaching her classes as well as mine so it will be very very busy for me in the next few weeks.

Take care everyone, lots of love from Korea!!

Sunday, October 3, 2010

Tongyeong and Somaemuldo

Hi there everyone in internet land, I know it's been a minute since I last posted, but this one will be good, I promise.

I took my first trip outside of the Seoul area this weekend, down to the very southeast corner of the country. This was a trip arranged by a great internet site my coworker told me about called Adventure Korea, and it was government subsidized as well so it was incredibly cheap. It was government funded because of the upcoming G20 summit in November, they're trying to promote tourism and travel within the country.

No good trip starts without a nice early wake up, and I met Sarah outside my building just before 6am on Saturday. An hour of bus and subway rides put us in the express bus terminal in the middle of Seoul. Once there we hit up the Duncan Donuts for some coffee and then walked up to street level to find our bus. That part wasn't too hard, we just had to look for the group of thirty or so white people all standing together. Then it was onto the bus and out of the city.

The ride down was absolutely gorgeous. It was about five hours down to our destination, and I was staring out the window wide-eyed the whole time. This country is so very green. The entire drive through the country side was bordered on both sides by mountains, a blue-green in the early morning light, and every mountain was covered from top to bottom in trees. Below the mountains were neatly ordered yellow-green fields of rice and the occasional patch of ginseng. Small villages popped up usually when we crossed a bridge over a little river or stream. I tried to read for a little bit but couldn't concentrate at all because I was constantly looking up to watch the amazing scenery roll by.

Around 1pm we came into Tongyeong and stopped for lunch, some delicious Korean barbecue, beef cooked on coals in the middle of our table, had some beer and got to know a few of the people on the trip. After we finished we drove over to the coast and got ready for a trip up the Mireuksan mountain. This is a small island mountain rising up only about 1300 feet, but the ride to the top was awesome. I say ride to the top because that's what we did, ride. We took Korea's longest cable car up, just shy of 2 kilometers long. From the top we got a spectacular view of the city below, and the Hallyeo National Marine Park out to the east. This is the only marine park in Korea, and it is really amazing. There are over three hundred small to medium sized islands stretching off the coast here, each one beautiful, green, and covered in trees. With the binoculars there was a sign that said you could see to Japan, but the day was a little hazy and our view of the distance was not clear enough. We took the cable car back down and then got back on the bus for our next destination.

We made a short stop at a place called Moon Park, known for it's great sunset view, but it was very cloudy so we moved on soon. Another quick stop at a fishing museum, then it was down to a little fishing village. We rode out on a boat to a fishery and spent some time casting lines into a grid of fish nurseries. I know, a little like fishing in a barrel, but I was one of only four of us to catch a fish so that was at least a little exciting. After an hour of that the light was fading pretty fast, so we got back into the boat and headed towards land, and dinner.

Dinner was a fish stew, like all Korean meals, served communally. More beer at dinner and more getting to know the fellow travelers, a very good meal. After that was done we rode out to our accommodation for the evening, four tall wooden buildings with windmills on the front of each. A little curious, but very comfortable so no one was complaining. Beer and catch-phrase with some friends made for a great evening, and finally I retired around midnight.

Another early morning the next day, leaving the hotel at about 6:30am for a ride down to the harbor. There we got on a big ferry boat for an hour long ride out to a particular island. The ride out was quite interesting, it was raining and the waves were a little choppy. At least four people threw up off the side of the boat due to a combination of hang over and sea sickness. Finally we made it to Somaemuldo Island, and at first it seemed like nothing special, just another tiny village perched on a tree covered island. We hiked up to the top and my mind was changed about that. On top was an old customs watch station that was in use in the 70s and 80s, just a hollowed out building now but from the roof there was an amazing view of the many islands out in this stretch of water. A short walk down a path to the other side to the peak showed us an absolutely spectacular view of the second part of the island. A sloping green lawn with a big white lighthouse was silhouetted by the ocean behind it, truly beautiful. Back down from the peak we took another path down the back side of the island to get over to the lighthouse, down a big big set of stairs, across a land bridge usable only during low tide, and up another big set of stairs put you right at the lighthouse. The view looking back was just as great.

The Koreans we saw on the island came in two categories, over prepared and under prepared. There was either a group decked out in matching hiking gear, from the boots to the poles to the jackets to the backpacks, they looked like they were going on a week long trek instead of a day hike, or a guy in a business suit and his girlfriend in a miniskirt and high heels. One common factor though, they had to look good. There are no different fashions or looks out here, only looking good.

Back onto the boat for the ride back, had a good time riding at the front watching the amazing scenery float by, until the waves got a little bigger and splashed up over the front, soaking the four of us who were standing there. The sun was poking it's head out though and from the upper deck between the rays and the wind we dried off pretty well. Back to the harbor and up the hills a bit for some more seafood for lunch. A delicious stew of crab, muscles, and oysters. By the end of the meal everyone was full and exhausted, so we thankfully piled onto the bus for the ride home.

I was able to sleep for a good chunk of the ride, and we got back to Seoul at around 8:30pm. Back down underground, weaving through the rather large crowd of Sunday subway shoppers (pretty much a big mall underground at this station) I had a feeling of great nostalgia from California, ragged and dirty with my backpack on taking public transport back into reality, getting more stares than I usually would. Finally, completely worn out, I made it to my bed and slept long and hard.

Overall, fantastic weekend. Here's a few pictures, the rest will be on facebook soon. Much love everyone!!!





the fish I caught